Law Kumar Mishra | Team TrickyScribe: Terrorists launched a grenade attack on Sunday at the weekly market near Srinagar’s Tourist Reception Centre (TRC), injuring about a dozen innocent shoppers. Hearing the news brought back memories of my time in Srinagar from 1998 to 2001, when I worked for The Times of India. I used to visit that very Sunday market myself.
My Arrival in Srinagar and Staying at the TRC
When I first arrived in Srinagar, I spent my first 15 days at the TRC. Winter had set in, and the temperature was barely 8 degrees Celsius. The TRC was almost empty; only a Swedish engineer working on a hydro-power project and I were staying there. For the first time in my life, I experienced the luxury of an electric blanket, though I still needed a 16 kg LPG cylinder to keep warm in the room. That winter chill got to me, and for a week, I had to take injections just to keep my body from giving up to the cold.
Life Near Lal Chowk: Markets and a Shuttered Cinema
Across from the TRC was an open field, which doubled as both a bus stand and a marketplace on Sundays. That market held a special energy, with woolen garments, blankets, and shoes all on sale from dawn till dusk. When I moved into a rented house on Court Road near Lal Chowk, I saw even more of the local scene — vendors setting up their stalls and families flocking to Lal Chowk, despite the ever-present threat of violence. The Palladium Cinema at Lal Chowk, once a lively spot, was burned down by militants and later converted into a BSF post. It was a bleak transformation, a reminder of how drastically the conflict had reshaped daily life.
Experiencing Grenade Attacks and Close Calls
Grenade attacks were a constant threat during my time there. One day, while I was at the Allahabad Bank branch near the Telephone Exchange by Ghanta Ghar, I heard the unmistakable sound of an explosion. Panic set in, and the bank manager quickly lowered the shutters, cautioning everyone that a grenade attack was underway. Another close call happened near the State Bank of India. Militants had loaded an Ambassador car with 200 kg of explosives, and as soon as it detonated, the blast was powerful enough to lift the car 100 feet into the air. That day, eleven people, including a journalist from Hindustan Times and four senior police officers, lost their lives in that brutal explosion.
Seeking Solace at Dastgeer Sahib Amidst the Chaos
In the midst of all this chaos, I sought solace in visiting historical sites like the Dastgeer Sahib shrine, a 10th-century Sufi landmark. I remember the calm I felt there, in contrast to the violence that was all too common. But even these sacred spaces were not immune. Militants once again targeted the Khanyar area, just 4 kilometers from the city center, with grenade attacks. Hearing about it took me back to a time nearly 35 years ago when teenage militants would lob grenades from bicycles — a haunting image of how deeply this conflict had permeated daily life.
A High-Profile Attack on Residency Road
There were high-profile incidents, too, which emphasized the ongoing risks. I recall an incident involving Justice Pandian, a retired Supreme Court judge. He was in Srinagar leading the Fifth Pay Revision Commission and, while shopping on Residency Road near Lal Chowk, was caught off guard by grenade explosions. His ITBP security team acted swiftly, shielding him as the blasts rang out nearby.
Interestingly, Justice Pandian was chairman of a judicial commission to probe the Pathribal (Anatnag) encounter in which five locals were killed. Commission found the encounters fake.
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